Imagine the sun rising over a beautiful coastline, the ocean stretching out endlessly before you, its waves rolling in with a rhythm as old as time. There are no judges, no scores to settle, no one to beat – just you, your board, and the boundless sea.
This is the essence of free surfing, a discipline where the only rule is to follow your own path. Unlike competitive surfing, where athletes are often bound by rigid structures and expectations to perform, free surfing offers a canvas for personal expression, creativity, and a deep connection with nature. It’s about embracing the ocean’s unpredictability and allowing it to shape your surfing, as well as your entire perspective on life.
In a world increasingly dominated by technology and constant demands for productivity and performance, free surfing stands as a powerful reminder of the beauty and peace that come from truly living in the moment.
This blog takes a look at the the unconditional freedom of free surfing – a journey where the ultimate goal is not victory, but a connection with the waves, with oneself, and with the core essence of surfing.
The Philosophy of Free Surfing
Free surfing is more than just a break from competition – it’s a way of life that celebrates the purity of the surfing experience. For many, the allure lies in the liberation from the pressures of competition, where scores and rankings often overshadow the joy of riding a wave. Free surfers are not bound by rules or judged on their performance; instead, they surf for the sheer love of it, allowing their instincts and emotions to guide them.
What might seem like a new movement is, in fact, a return to surfing’s roots. Long before surfing became a competitive sport with rankings, sponsorships, “the tour”, and Olympic media coverage, it was simply a way of life – a pure and spiritual connection with the ocean. Ancient Polynesians, often credited as the original surfers, rode waves for pleasure and as a form of cultural expression, free from the
constraints of modern-day competition. The essence of free surfing today simply continues this tradition, cultivating the true core of the surfing experience.
At its core, free surfing is about a profound connection with nature. Each wave is unique, and the ocean’s ever-changing moods dictate how a surfer moves, creating a dynamic and intimate relationship with the environment. This connection fosters a deep respect for the ocean, encouraging surfers to become stewards of the natural world that gives them so much joy.
But beyond the connection with nature, free surfing is a powerful form of self-expression. Without the constraints of competition, surfers can experiment with different styles, maneuvers, and techniques, crafting a personal surfing experience that is as unique as they are. In this way, free surfing becomes an art form, a way to express one’s individuality through the language of the waves.
This philosophy is less about being against competition, but more so a return to freedom without the pressures of performing; a reminder that surfing’s most authentic form lies not in the pursuit of trophies but in the pursuit of moments – those fleeting instances when surfer, board, and wave become one. Free surfing is a celebration of the sport’s true essence, a return to the joyful, liberating roots from which modern surfing has grown.
Historical Context
The roots of free surfing can be traced back to the countercultural movements of the 1960s and 70s, a time when surfers began to reject the increasing commercialization and competition that were creeping into the sport. This era was marked by a desire to return to the basics, to rediscover the pure joy of surfing without the trappings of fame, sponsorships, and rigid structures. Surfers like Miki Dora, known for his rebellious spirit, became icons of this movement, embodying the essence of what it meant to surf for the love of the ride rather than the accolades.
As the sport of surfing grew and competitions became more structured, with defined criteria and scoring systems, a parallel movement of free surfers continued to flourish. These surfers chose to step away from the competitive scene, carving out a path that allowed them to engage with the ocean on their own terms. They sought out remote, often uncharted surf spots, where they could surf in solitude, away from the crowds and the constraints of competitive events.
Key figures like Rob Machado and Craig Anderson have since emerged as modern-day ambassadors of free surfing, showcasing a style that is fluid, artistic, and deeply connected to the natural world. Their approach to surfing has inspired a new generation to embrace free surfing as a way to reclaim the sport’s roots and prioritize the intrinsic rewards of the experience over external validation.
Today, free surfing stands as a testament to the sport’s rich history and its potential to evolve without losing sight of its essence. It’s a reminder that, at its heart, surfing is about the simple, yet profound, act of riding a wave – free from expectations, free from competition, and free to explore the limitless possibilities that the ocean offers.
The Lifestyle of a Free Surfer
Free surfing isn’t just a way to ride waves – it’s a lifestyle choice that prioritizes freedom, adventure, and a deep connection with the natural world. For many, the appeal lies in the absence of schedules, rules, or expectations. There’s no competition jersey to put on, no judges scrutinizing every move – just the surfer, their board, and the ocean.
A hypothetical day in the life of a free surfer on a trip begins somewhere around dawn, with the sun barely kissing the horizon. The first task is to check the swell, trying to predict where the best waves will be breaking. Then, it’s a race to their prized breaks, often off the beaten path, where the waves are clean and the crowds are few. The thrill of discovery drives these surfers – finding that perfect, uncrowded wave is what it’s all about.
Free surfers often travel out of vans, ready to chase the swell wherever it takes them
or jet-set across the globe on a moment’s notice. Their life is one of minimalism and simplicity, where the focus is on the essentials: a select quiver of boards, few clothes, and the open road or an endless coastline. When they’re not surfing, they’re planning the next adventure, tweaking their quiver for whatever they’re pursuing, or sharing tales of epic sessions with friends around a beach fire. Obviously this is a bit of a hyperbolic simplification of these surfers’ lives, as they’re often regular folks with jobs and such, but you get the gist.
This lifestyle of chasing waves isn’t without its challenges. The financial reality of sustaining such a freewheeling existence without the backing of competition winnings or consistent sponsorships can be tough – boards are expensive, as are flights. However, this scarcity often breeds creativity. Free surfers are known for their entrepreneurial spirit, many of them starting their own brands, hosting surf camps, or finding innovative ways to partner with companies that share their ethos. Big brands like Quiksilver and Vans have slowly come to recognize the appeal and influence of free surfing, offering support that allows these surfers to continue their pursuit of the perfect wave while also contributing to the surfing culture through content creation and lifestyle embodiment.
Ultimately, the life of a free surfer is one of profound simplicity and adventure. It’s about embracing the unknown, the uncertain, and the uncharted, all in the pursuit of that next great wave. For those who live it, the rewards – peace, freedom, joy – are well worth the challenges.
Common Misconceptions
There is a strange misconception that free surfing is somehow less serious or legitimate than competitive surfing. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Free surfing requires an immense amount of skill, dedication, and mental fortitude. It’s not about being a rebel without a cause, but rather about choosing a path that prioritizes personal fulfillment and a deep connection with the ocean over external validation.
Another common myth is that free surfers are simply drifters or loners, disconnected from the broader surfing community. In reality, free surfing thrives on community. Free surfers often travel in packs, share waves, and support each other’s creative
projects. They form a tight-knit tribe, bonded by a shared love for the ocean and a collective pursuit of freedom. This sense of community is essential to the free surfing lifestyle, offering both camaraderie and support in the often solitary pursuit of the perfect wave.
Finally, free surfing is sometimes viewed as a purely hedonistic pursuit, focused solely on pleasure. While the joy of surfing is a key component, free surfers are also deeply connected to the environment. They are often the first to notice changes in the ocean, from pollution to shifts in wave patterns due to climate change. This environmental awareness often leads free surfers to become advocates for ocean conservation, using their platforms to raise awareness and promote sustainability.
In essence, free surfing is not a rejection of surfing’s competitive aspects but a reaffirmation of its roots. It’s a choice to embrace the uncertainty and adventure that comes with riding waves for the sheer love of it, and in doing so, to keep alive the true spirit of surfing
Closing Thoughts
Free surfing is more than just a style of surfing – it’s fundamentally a return to the roots of surfing, where the true essence of the sport is found in freedom, creativity, and a deep connection with the ocean. It’s about breaking away from the competitive constraints that can sometimes overshadow the pure joy of surfing and instead embracing the unpredictability and raw beauty of the ocean.
For those who choose this path, free surfing offers an unparalleled sense of liberation, allowing surfers to express themselves fully and connect with the environment in a way that is both profound and personal. It’s a lifestyle that demands both courage and creativity, where the rewards come not from trophies or recognition, but from the simple, yet extraordinary, experience of riding a wave.
As the world of surfing continues to evolve, the free surfers remind us of what truly matters – the love of the ocean, the thrill of the ride, and the freedom to carve our own path. Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or new to the waves, the philosophy of free surfing is a powerful reminder to embrace the journey, savor the moment, and keep the spirit of surfing alive.
So here’s to the free surfers, the adventurers who chase horizons and ride the waves of life on their own terms. May they continue to inspire us all to find our own version of freedom, wherever it may be.
